The bars in Bombay are unique in having “bar girls,” girls employed by the bar owner to dance fully clothed to entice customers to buy more alcohol in the promise of something more from the dancers. Since the city extracts a huge price in terms of the number of hours spent on commuting and on the job, in recent times it has seen a mushrooming growth in bars and the consumption of alcohol. Mehta comes face-to-face with several hitmen, the functionaries of gang leaders who operate from afar, whose price for a killing is no more than the cost of a mid-priced dinner at a New York restaurant. The growing gap between the haves and the have-nots and the rising tide of communal violence that culminated in the 1992-1993 Hindu-Muslim riots introduced the city to gangsters, contract killings, and protection payments. In addition to the more obvious demographic factors – an ever increasing population with the highest density of people per square mile anywhere in the world – Mehta sees a culture shift that is not particularly subtle. Mehta realizes that much had changed in Bombay in the two-decade plus interim. Mehta, in essence, acted on every expatriate’s dream of going back home and reconnecting with his past. But what really brought Mehta back was his curiosity about the city of his birth – to see if it had changed or had remained true to his boyhood memory. Ostensibly, Mehta’s reasons were to give his children a sense of their roots and an exposure to Indian culture. Twenty-one years later, Mehta returned to Bombay for a two-year stint, along with his wife and two infant boys. Suketu Mehta lived the first fourteen years of his life in Bombay and then moved to New York when his diamond merchant father moved his entire family to the United States. Yet all indicators seem to point out the fact that it is an unlivable city, with a population of 19 million and growing, with ubiquitous traffic congestion and recurring communal violence interspersed with regular underworld activity. Millions throng to it every year from all over India to heed its siren song of glamour and economic prosperity.
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